Home Beer Making – Better Barley Brews Better Beer

Ranking fourth in about 14 cereal crops produced worldwide, Barley’s prominence in the agricultural sector is undeniable. With an average of 133 million metric tons of barley produced annually, this type of whole grain is far more useful than just your average animal feed ingredients. Next to being used as a major animal fodder, its commercial worth can be largely shored up in terms of its inherent value in the home beer making and commercial brewing industries.

 

Barley belongs to the grass family called Hordeum vulgare. Barley malt is the end product produced through controlled germination and kilning or drying. In the germination process, the barley kernels are soaked in water, dried, and are allowed to sprout under controlled temperatures.  The sprouting process is a crucial phase because this is where the special enzymes (serine-class proteases) are broken down from carbohydrates to simple sugars. In the brewing process, the malt sugar solution is mixed and boiled with the hops for that unique fusion of taste and aroma. The solution is set to cool and yeast is added to initiate the fermentation process. As soon as the yeast ferments the sugar content of the barley malt, it simultaneously releases carbon dioxide and ethyl alcohol.  Once the fermentation process has been concluded, the beers are stored in sealed bottles, ready to captivate the most finicky beer enthusiasts from around the world.

 

Brewers generally classify barley according to species: the two-row and the six-row. In two-rowed barleys, only the central floret is considered fertile, while all florets are fertile for the 6-row barley. Two-row barleys are preferred by most countries around the world including Germany and most English countries.  Six-row barleys were conventionally preferred by brewers in the United States and in Mexico, but both variants are now being considered for marketing and innovation purposes. Basically, two-rows can be used as a base malt for almost all styles. They are also characterized by a smoother and less grainy taste. They have lower protein content and higher levels of fermentable sugars, making them more ideal for brewing. The high protein content of 6-row barleys can produce cloudy beers and are not recommended for new home brewers who haven’t mastered the meticulous properties of barley as malt bases.

 

Apart from the scientific slash aromatic roles of barley in the home beer making process, master brewers also consider barley the soul of every home made beer. This is because barley contains some of the most essential and nutritional features credited to beers. Its fiber content has been shown to have multiple benefits in terms of lowering the system’s cholesterol levels. Its niacin and selenium content are also healthy bonuses that come with every beer experience.  The stickiness of the barley malt also contributes in the overall viscosity and the distinct body of home made beers.

 

With Barley virtually spelling the aroma, taste, and the body of beer, every home beer maker should consider the quality and type of barley to be used in home brewing. While the benefits of barley come in conjunction with other beer ingredients, their inimitable characteristics and properties as beer grains will remain unmatched in the whole beer making process. Some may use other forms of grains as malt bases, but only barleys can define classic home brewed ales.

 

 

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Home Brewing Ingredients and Why They are so Important

Home Brewing Ingredients and Why They Are So Important

Home brewing beer can be quite a fun and educational process. Although there are many different ways a home brewer can make his or her home brewed beer, there are some essential ingredients which must be included at all times when homebrewing. These main homebrew ingredients are malt, hops, yeast, sugars, and water.

The first most basic homebrewing ingredient is malt. The most commonly used is barley malt. There are also other types of things such as corn and rice which can be added to the home brewed beer, but these are considered as adjuncts. Barley malt comes in two different types, 2-row malt and 6-row malt where 2-row malt has larger grains and less husk.

The whole malting process begins by simply steeping the grains until they are in germination mode, then they are quickly dried. What happens is the enzymes which convert the starches to sugars are “frozen” in their tracks until the steeping, or mash, begins during the home brewing process.

The next ingredient is hops. Hops add the flavors, aromas and bitterness often found in beers for over 1,000 years. They act as a balancing factor in home brewing with their special oils which are released during the brewing process. Hops consist of many different levels of acidity and can be purchased in pellet, leaf, or whole hop forms.

The next home brewing ingredient is yeast. There are two types of yeasts for home brewing. The two types of home brewing yeast are ale and lager yeasts. The main differences between the two yeasts are through the characteristics they provide to the end home brewed product. Ale yeasts offer a much more “floral” aroma and such and are much easier to handle during fermentation for many new and experienced brewers. Ale yeast is a top fermenting yeast, which means it ferments and foams at the top and then settles to the bottom. Ale yeast can also ferment and much higher temperatures that lager yeasts.

Lager yeasts actually require much lower temperatures for fermentation and are referred to as “bottom-fermenting” yeasts. It is the lower temperatures during fermentation which keep the yeasts from providing similar characteristics such as a floral aroma like that of ales.

Most yeasts are manufactured commercially and can be purchased in liquid or dry form for home brewers.

Water, of course, is one of the most essential ingredients and it can also alter the outcome of your end home brew product. Waters come in many “styles”. For example, water in London could be much more “minerally”, or hard, that that of water from Los Angeles, California. These characteristics are actually considered in the official styles of beers. In order to keep in line with the official style of the beer, many additions will have to be made in order to emulate the hardness or softness of the water where the original style came from.

Sugars are another thing which many home brewers may use during the home brewing process, especially for such beers as Belgian Strong ales and such. These sugars are added in order to affect the taste and alcohol levels of the home brewed beer, giving the yeast much more sugar to ferment. In addition, priming sugars are often used for the bottling process in order to add carbonation in the bottle.

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Lager or Ale? What’s the Difference?

In honor of our first upcoming Brew Ha-Ha, or beer festival if you will, I thought I would dedicate a post to our most popular beer question….What’s the difference between a lager and an ale?

There are actually only two basic categories of beer:  lager and ale.   The difference lies in three main processes of the brewing that takes us a little onto the ‘beer geek’ side.

Yeast
There are two different types of yeast strains – top-fermenting and bottom-fermenting.  The name is actually as simple as it sounds…top-fermenting yeast sits on top of the beer while it’s in the fermentation tank, bottom-fermenting on the bottom.  Ales use top-fermenting yeasts which rise to the top of the tank at the end of the fermentation process.  This type of yeast also adds the flavors to the Ale, which comes from chemical compounds within the yeast called “esters.”  Lagers use the second kind of yeast, bottom-fermenting, which is also able to be reused after one batch is complete.  However, this type of yeast does not add any flavor to the beer – that usually comes from hops and malts that are added in later.

Time/Temperature
The yeast used in ale prefers higher temperature for fermentation (room temperature up to 75 degrees F), the higher temperature also causes an increase in the fermentation process producing mature beer much faster than lagers.  Lagers, by contrast, ferment at a much slower pace and cooler temperatures (46 – 59 degrees F).  Back in the day, lagers were only made in cooler European climates like Germany.  The term ‘lager’ originally stems from the German word ‘lagern,’ meaning to store which helped Germans distinguish the lager process v. ale process (lagers need more time to ferment and therefore are stored during fermentation).

Other Ingredients
During the brewing process for ales, many recipes call for additional hops, malts, and other ingredients that result in a more bitter and malty taste than lagers.  Ale brewers tend to be a bit more experimental in their recipes adding flavored malts, roasted malts, coffee and even chocolate (called adjuncts in the brewing process).  Lagers are much more basic when it comes to ingredients, which may stem from the old German 1516 Beer Purity Law. It seems more lager producers follow this law trying to stay in the style of traditional German lagers.  The law was originally put in place to prevent brewers from using sub-par ingredients for a way to save some dollars.  However, it now restricts brewers (Germans in particular) to certain hops and malts to keep the crisp, clean taste of a lager.

So what does all that mean to me?
When it comes to beer, yes there are basically only two kinds:  ales and lagers.  But the amount sub categories in those two types has greatly expanded over the last few years especially with the increase of micro breweries across the world.   In general, lagers are lighter and crisper in flavor and ales have a bit more of a backbone.  But it really depends on the producer.  Best bet?  Ask your local beer professional (yours truly & our staff) about what would best match your tastes.  Or taste a lot of different styles – Pale Ales, IPAs, Stouts, etc. (like at our next beer tasting) and decide what you like on your own!..

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Home Brew Hints – Nut Brown Ale Recipe

The first thing you will need to do is acquire the ingredients and equipment for this brew. You will need the standard equipment for making a home brewed beer and the following supplies:

7 pounds of Canadian light syrup
0.5 pounds of Pale Malt (grain)
0.75 pounds of 60L crystal malt (grain)
0.5 pounds of Chocolate malt (grain)
2 ounces of Fuggles pellet hops (bittering)
1/2 ounce of Golding pellets hops (flavoring)
3/4 cup of priming sugar
1 packet of Munton’s Gold ale yeast
Hop bags and grain bags

Pour the grain into a grain bag. I recommend that you divided the grain into 2 sections separated by a knot because this is a large amount of grain to hold in a single bag. Fill your pot with 2 gallons of water, add your grain bag, and begin to heat on the stove. Heat until 150 degrees F. For the next 30 minutes keep the temperature between 150oF and 160oF. If the temperature goes past 160, you may reduce heat by adding cold water. During this time, occasionally lift the grain bag and allow it to drain. Do not squeeze the bag. After 30 minutes is up, lift the bag from the pot and again allow it to drain. Discard the grains.

Increase temperature and bring contents of pot to a boil. Remove from heat and add the Canadian light syrup stirring while adding. Keep stirring until it is completely dissolved. Put the 2 ounces of Fuggles hops into a hop bag and tie knot. Add the hop bag to the pot, return to heat, and boil for 45 minutes. Put the 1/2 ounce of Golding hops into a hop bag and tie knot. Add bag to pot and boil for another 15 minutes.

After boiling is done, remove the hop bags from the pot. At this stage, the mixture is known as wort, which is just a word for unfermented beer. The next stage is to quickly cool the wort by removing it from the stove and putting it in the sink full of ice. I have found the best way to do this is to fill the sink with about a half inch of cold water, add put the pot on this thin layer, then add a bag of ice evenly around the pot. I do it this way to keep an even temperature around the outside of the pot while also keeping the pot level. If you add the ice in before the pot, you will have trouble getting it level.

While the wort is cooling, you should take this time to sanitize your fermenter. Mix a teaspoon and a couple of cups of water into the fermenter making sure all surfaces get wet. Pour out the solution onto the top of the fermenter. Rinse the inside of the fermenter and the top at least two times before adding the wort.

By this time your wort has probably cooled down quite a bit. When it reaches 100 degrees it is time for it to be added to the fermenter. Pour a little bit of water to the bottom of the fermemter, making sure the nozzle is shut, before adding your wort. Fill the rest of the fermenter up with tap water to the 5-gallon level.Add the yeast packet to the mixture making sure that you are stirring during this process. It is important that the yeast is aerated. Put the top on the fermemter making sure that is it on there tight. Fill the air lock halfway with water and fit it on the lid’s hole.

The hardest part of making this brew is complete. All you have to do now is wait. After about half a day you will notice the air lock will begin to bubble and inside a think foam will be forming on the top of the wort. After 2-3 days I usually transfer my mixture to a glass fermenter for the remainder of the process, but this step is not necessary. What is important though, is that you wait until all the foam is gone before bottling.

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